Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central
Visited 4th July 2010
A friend and her fellow - who’s a chef - are in town and there’re not mucking around with anything but the big names. I couldn’t make dinner at Bo Innovation and unfortunately work got in the way of what was apparently an epic lunch at Robuchon á Galera in Macau. So after missing out twice I certainly wasn’t going to miss dinner at Lung King Heen. This Cantonese restaurant in the Four Sasons Hotel has the distinction of being the first and only Chinese restaurant in the Universe to receive three Michelin stars. We were shown through the stylish, but subdued interior to a window table where it was all glamour and seaside views.
The food is pretty standard selection of Cantonese offerings, with the expected premium seafood holding up the menu. I let my friends choose and we ended up with tasty, but predictable dishes. First off was their signature appetiser; pears with scallops. Tender, plump scallops were set atop a piece of pear and deep fried in a light, crisp batter. I thought the scallops were excellent and the batter showed a deft touch, but the thick slice of basically raw pear was
too crisp and seemed somehow dominated the delicate seafood. Next up were Sichuan-style roast lambchops; these were tender and well cooked, though the sauce was very subtle and not what I expected at all for Sichuan flavouring. Beef with black pepper isn’t something I’d normally order though I enjoyed the tender cubes of beef that were wok tossed with spring onion, garlic and fragrant black pepper. The minced pigeon in lettuce that came next was one of my favourite dishes; really tasty stuff. Though simple I also thought the sautéed zucchini with mushrooms was excellent; pure and fresh this was perfectly cooked and the different varieties of mushrooms packed plenty of flavour. We finished with half a roast chicken. This is meant to be something of a signature dish, but it was pretty disappointing. Joey swears the chicken tasted frozen and while I struggle to believe this, I'd much prefer the roast chook at Tai Wing Wah.
I not a big one for desserts, but, as so often the case, my opinion didn't count. We shared sesame balls, custard puffs and a serve of mango and sago pudding and barley cream. The mango pudding was pretty tasty with slivers of fresh fruit, but nothing obviously special. The barley cream had faint traces of almond, but was really watery and was a pretty average dish. Again the sesame balls and custard puffs were OK, but nothing overly exciting. My favourite desert was the complimentary petits fours; crisp almond cookies and cubes of wolfberry jelly.
To drink we ordered an OK bottle of Chablis and an extortionately priced bottle of sparkling water. While I thought the food really well priced the drinks were disgustingly expensive; no matter how good the food is a bottle of water should never be $95. 
The quality at Lung King Heen was obvious; top-notch, fresh produce prepared with care and precision, but somehow I felt the whole think lacked the wow factor. Maybe I'm just judging harshly because of those shinning stars, but I really couldn't figure how this was any better than twenty other Cantonese joints around town. What it lacked in innovation, it certainly made up for in competitive pricing; every dish we had was under $200. Our bill came to just over $500 each, which with desserts and alcohol has to make Lung King Heen the cheapest three star Michelin restaurant going. While the harbour views and interior were spectacular I was actually a bit unsure of what I thought about the service. The staff were ultra efficient, but the whole show lacked personality and I almost felt I was being looked after by attentive,
but aloof robots. Despite what the French tyre makers think Lung king Heen isn't the best Chinese restaurant in the universe, but it is pretty good; the harbour views and traditional menu certainly make it a good option for wooing visitors.
Visit restaurant website.
77 Wellington St, Central
Visited 20th June 2010
I was hungry, hung-over and heartbroken. Bitterly disappointed with the terrible refereeing decision that resulted in Australia's World Cup draw to Ghana I was also on the lookout for hangover food. I found myself in Wellington Street and took the opportunity to try Mak's Noodles. On a street packed with restaurants this old school joint, which has been around since the 1960's, would easily be the most famous. I'm a big fan of Wang Fu and like Tsim Chai Kee Noodle across the road so was very keen to see how Mak's compared. They have also opened several other branches around town.
The selection at Mak's is pretty basic with only a couple of noodle dishes and sides of vegetables to choose from. I went for the noodle soup with wontons and beef brisket. When the dish came I was taken back - the tiny bowl was honestly not much bigger than a regular sized rice bowl. Within was a pile of chewie egg noodles, three tiny shrimp wontons, cubes of beef and a scattering of spring onions. The delicate wontons were tasty and the tender braised beef and its rich grave was really good. Flavoured by the sauce clinging to the beef and spring onions the soup was also delicious.
My feed at Mak's Noodles was extremely enjoyable, but it was so tiny that after I left I basically started looking for snacks straight away. The quality was excellent, but $40 for such a tiny bowl seemed to be pushing it, especially when the competition's so fierce on Wellington Street. The restaurant seemed to be more crowded with well presented waiters than customers and the guy who served me was helpful and friendly. For sure I loved the noodles at Mak's, but the serve was so unsatisfying that I wonder if I'll bother going back; I can't see the point in visiting a restaurant and having to order two serves to get an average sized lunch.
No website to visit, but they're famous enough to have a Wikipedia page.
G/F, Prince's Building, 10 Chater Rd, Central
Visited 26th April 2010
Hoisted above the cool suits of the Alfred Dunhill's Prince Building store this joint venture with the oh so grand Kee Club can't help but ooze style. While I've enjoyed my past visits to the member's only Kee Club I tend to think the whole place has been heavily dusted with a the pretentiousness brush, Alfie's on the other hand seems to be just your typical down-to-Earth Western restaurant in Central. The place looks in many ways more like a slick bar than a restaurant. I'm not normally too fussed about a
joint's decor, but I really liked the look of this place; black leather sofas, black tiles, black and white prints along with a couple of things that weren't black.
The menu doesn't have a huge selection and what's there is very much traditional English fare; think sausage and mash, pie, roast chicken, steak, smoked haddock, trifle, Eton mess and crumble. We shared a sausage roll starter and then I went for the poached Scottish Salmon. The sausage roll was pretty standard; minced pork wrapped in flaky pastry. Though not overly exciting it tasted good and I thought the only negative was the accompanying homemade tomato sauce that was strangely acidic. My salmon came with lentils and a watercress salad and the whole think was a hit. The moist salmon was perfectly cooked and peppery salad leaves and tender lentils offered a perfect accompaniment. I also really enjoyed a little sample of Joey's roast chicken with mushrooms and spinach. However my friend's shepherd's pie was pretty uninspiring and no better than what's avaliable in most Hong Kong pubs. I appreciated being
offered iced water, but also enjoyed a glass of Louis Latour Bourgogne Chardonnay.
The food at Alfie's is touted as "modern British fare" and while it's very British I can't really see how it's modern British (well maybe apart from the fact that it's good), but labels tend to be irrelevant and this tasted superb. Both Joey and my mains were well cooked, delicious meals; the fact that we enjoyed them in a stylish setting surrounded by attentive staff only helped to heighten the experience. While particularly a bargain the prices seem pretty fair for this style of place in Central; the chicken was $185, my salmon $225 and the starter $90. I'll admit that I went into Alfie's By Kee with a bit of a chip on my shoulder, however I walked out converted.
Visit restaurant website.
24 Stanley St, Central
Visited 17th March 2010
My mother is visiting with a friend and after an afternoon on the Peak I thought I'd take them somewhere quintessentially Cantonese for their first meal in town. As we were in Central Yuen Kee seemed the obvious choice, but I've been somewhat unimpressed on my last couple of visits so instead thought it was time to try Luk Yu Tea House. This place has been around since 1933 and in many
ways still looks like a restaurant of that era. The decor is fantastic with old wooden furniture, antiques and a classic 'old-school' charm. While it is famous for its dim sum the restaurant gained a touch of infamousness in 2002 when tycoon Harry Lam Hon-lit, was shot at point-blank range while eating breakfast.
Specialising in dim sum during the day Luk Yu Tea House is very Cantonese in flavour. We ordered roast pigeon, sauteed squid, barbecue pork, shredded beef and vegetables. The fragrant roast pigeon was really tasty and enjoyable start. Next was a plate of fresh squid that oozed freshness; simply wok-tossed with ginger, capsicum and spring onion, though there wasn't really enough squid on the plate for my liking. My mum's an extremely fussy eater, but the
shredded beef was her favourite, though simply tossed with spring onions I thought it a touch bland. The barbecue pork was tasty; however the serve that we got presented with was tiny. To finish it was a plate of crisp choi sum; this was the most disappointing dish as the freshness of the crisp vegetables was lost in a massive glug of starchy oyster-sauce based dressing. We after a bottle of vino but were told that they don't sell wine, which was strange as they had quite a collection of wine bottles on display...
So what did I think? Was Luk Yu Tea House as good as its reputation? First up I really did enjoy the food; it was well prepared and freshness and quality of the ingredients was obvious. The portions were all pretty small and though tasty I thought it was all a touch overpriced. Grumpy, old waiters are a common stereotype associated with Chinese restaurants and the fossils on display at Luk Yu Tea House were the worst I've ever seen. The bloke who served us was rude, arrogant and totally unhelpful; he even had the guile to tell us that he'd prefer his tip in cash rather than added to the credit card bill. I'd certainly be interested in trying the dim sum at Luk Yu Tea House, but the service was so disgusting that I can't see why I'd bother returning for another serve of condescending arrogance dished up by rude waiters.
Level 1, IFC Mall, Central
Visited 31st December
It's strange that I've never managed to make it to Simplylife Bread and Wine before; my mother lives in Australia yet she seems to be something of a regular. Anyway, located on the first floor of the IFC mall this joint is both a restaurant and a cafe. The restaurant is off to the side while the casual cafe seating has views over Victoria Harbour and Kowloon, though the low angle means the foreground is chocked with buses. As
I entered, the busy open kitchen, rows of pretty pastries and a wine covered wall all vied for my attention.
I suppose the 'cafe' is more of an upmarket sandwich bar as they mainly sell pastries and pre-made sandwiches. I wasn't overly hungry so went for a small, toasted panini with cheese and prosciutto and a cafe latte. The crisp, grilled sandwich was good; filled with plenty of salty prosciutto and a gooey cheese it was a nourishing and tasty lunch. The coffee was decent though I was a bit disappointed that it was served in a paper cup; I saw mugs there and it would have been nice if the barista asked me for my preference. I did glance at the main restaurant's menu and it looked interesting so I'll have to come back and check it out.
Simplylife Bread and Wine is a good spot for lunch in the IFC; the bread is tasty and obviously fresh, while the views aren't half bad. Value wise it was pretty fair; my sandwich was $32 ($48 for a large) and the coffee was $22. If you compare Simply Life Bread and Wine to Starbucks and Pacific Coffee you have to wonder why anyone bothers to visit the chains. At Simply Life the food is miles ahead, while the coffee is better and cheaper. I do find this rather interesting as Simplylife is run by the Maxim's Group who also hold the Hong Kong franchise for Starbucks - one works, one doesn't.
Visit restaurant website.
Level 1, IFC Mall, Central
Visited 21st May 2009
I quite like the IFC as a thoroughfare, but as a shopping centre it borders on the outright pretentious. Thursday night, while wandering its glitzy halls and waiting for a rather average film to start, we decide to head to the Union Bar and Grille for a drink and snack. The restaurant is divided into two with a bar at the front and more formal dining area at the rear. Union Bar and Grille is styled on New York watering holes and the interior ticks all the right boxes with lots of all leather, glossy timber and candles; it's pleasant and comfortable.
We settled at a comfy bar table and took advantage of the separate bar menu to order up some snacks. Choosing from a pretty standard range of dishes we went with sweet and sour chicken wings, a flat bread pizza with roasted vegetables and feta and a bowl of fries. The best thing were the fries; while they weren't overly warm the skin on chips tasted fresh, crisp and well seasoned. The serve of four manky chicken drumettes was terrible; the sauce smothering them was sickly sweet and tasted off, while the accompanying bowl of blue cheese dipping sauce was average to say the least. Unbelievably the pizza was worse. The supposed 'flat bread' base was hard and burnt, tasting more like a stale water cracker than bread. The pathetically small pizza was lacking recognisable topping with just a couple of shrivelled vegetables and five tiny pieces of feta in sight. We arrived during
happy hour and $35 for a pint of San Miguel and $55 for a glass of wine seemed a lot more appealing than the food.
The Union Bar and Grille has a good reputation; its comfortable setting, professional service and reasonably priced happy hours drinks mean that it is potentially an oasis amongst the overpriced sparkles of the IFC. However there's one problem; the food. Looking at the company's website I was amazed to see the words "WARNING! We Serve American Portions", what I encountered was the total opposite; tiny serves of terrible food. The flatbread cost $65, the wings $52 and the fries $35 which considering the size is really bad value for money. I'm sure I'll be back to the Union Bar and Grille for a drink, but I certainly wont be injuring my wallet by ever ordering their average food again.
Visit restaurant website.
Shop 2018, Level 2, IFC Mall, Central
Visited 8th May 2009
At last count there were ten outlets of this extremely popular chain in the Territory, though I'm not sure how many of the devotees who regularly queue for tables realise that the Crystal Jade started life as a Cantonese restaurant in Singapore. In Hong Kong they have morphed into Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Bao and specialise in Shanghai cuisine. Their branches are scattered amongst many of Hong Kong's larger shopping centres, but if you're planning on visiting the IFC outlet,
evening is the best time as the lines at lunch time are often ridiculously long.
Four of us hit Crystal Jade's for some much needed Friday night sustenance. We ordered up a pile of plates that featured Shanghai dumplings, pan-fried dumplings, turnip pastries, deep-fried shredded 'pancake', chicken with dried chilli, beans with minced pork, tea smoked pigeon and of course the signature Sichuan style 'la mian'. The delicate Shanghai dumplings were delicious with a tasty soup filling as were the flaky turnip pastries and shredded 'pancake'. I enjoyed the rich gaminess of the pigeon, while the spicy chicken came with plenty of cashews and chillies. My favourite however was the Sichuan 'la mian' or pulled noodles; served in a fiery peanut and chilli sauce the tender noodles with beautifully cooked. To drink I went for a couple of cold cans of Tsing Tao, though if you are in the mood for wine a useful tip is to BYO as corkage is a very reasonable $50 a bottle.
With its shopping centre location, long queues and crowded layout Crystal Jade has more than a passing resemblance to a fast-food chain; they're just lucky their food is so good so that the mistake never gets made. The service at Crystal Jade is decent; polite staff handle the craziness with good natured efficiency. I was pretty impressed when our bill came to less than $100 per person excluding booze. For such well prepared grub and a selection of eight different dishes that really is a bit of a bargain. To put it simply; everyone, everyone, everyone loves Crystal Jade.
Visit restaurant website.
98 Wellington St, Central
Visited 26th March 2009
For an easy meal in Central, Wellington Street is often a good option; close to the bars of Lan Kwai Fong and Soho it's packed with good value, local restaurants. Wang Fu Dumpling has become my favourite on this little dinning strip. Inside its pretty basic, but it's traditional Beijing dumplings, not the decor, that brings in the punters. I dropped in with a friend for an after work snack and was impressed to see handmade dumplings being busily folded in the kitchen.
Wang Fu Dumpling is obviously all about dumplings; there's an interesting range, including daily specials that are all served steamed or in soup. They also offers a small range of traditional Beijing snacks including Lu Da Gun or 'Rolling Donkey'; a dessert made with bean flour and red beans. Unfortunately we were both on our way to dinner engagements so could only squeeze in a serve of dumplings and cold noodles with shredded chicken. We went for the pork and garlic dumplings and the plate of ten fat little delicious parcels were simply steamed and went down a treat with a dash of vinegar. The noodles were just as good; the slippery, chewy texture of the glutinous
noodles was complemented by the tasty sauce and crisp slithers of cucumber. Like a good local lad I washed the whole lot down with a nourishing paper cup of "low-sugar soy milk".
Wang Fu Dumplings offers unpretentious and tasty nourishment. We walked out surprisingly full from a 'snack' that set us back a piddly $60; a bargain for dumplings, noodles and soy milk for two. Dumplings are cool, but lovingly handmade, top-quality, bargain priced dumplings are something excited by. Wang Fu Dumplings would standout for its quality in Beijing, in Hong Kong it's a true culinary gem.
Sorry about the bad quality images, they were taken on a phone.
Basement, Alexandra House, Des Voeux Rd, Central
Visited 5th November 2008
Friends passing through Hong Kong demands a Chinese meal in Central and for a change we tried Peking Garden. The original branch
of this restaurant is in Star House in TST, but this rather fancy looking place in the basement of the rather fancy Alexandra House. It really is beautifully decorated with bright coral (yes coral - not red, not pink, but coral) tablecloths and napkins, plates with classical Chinese images and rather snazzy wine glasses.
The highlights of the Peking inspired menu include beggars chicken and delicious looking Peking duck. The three of us couldn't face a whole duck and didn't order the chicken in advance so instead we went for
beef with spring onions, chicken with walnuts, cabbage with Hunan ham and my friends have-to-order-every-time-favourite sweet and sour pork (and to be fair the tender pork was tasty and not overly sweet). I enjoyed the beef and richly flavoured cabbage, though I did think the chicken and walnut dish was a touch too dry. Having dinner with two girls meant that we didn't just order dessert, we ordered three desserts. The coconut jelly (which came with a cherry on top) and baked tapioca custard were both good, but the home banana fritters were the highlight. Finished at the table using cream soda to harden the toffee outside these bad-boys really were delicious. Peking Garden's has a decent winelist and we enjoyed a bottle of rose from one of my
favourite Yarra Valley producers, Dominique Portet.
Peking Garden is good, very good. The setting is impeccable and the service ultra professional. I really enjoyed our meal and though it good value considering its location and the high quality; our food came to under $200 each and all the dishes we ordered cost less than $100. There is also an element of showmanship Peking Garden that is perfect to wow guests; the girls loved the banana fritters being finished at the table and the noodle making demonstration that happened half way through the evening was really impressive. I can't recommend Pecking Garden enough and I'll certainly be coming back soon to try the Peking Duck.
4/F Exchange Square II, Central
Visited 11th October 2008
The second restaurant in a row with 'square' in the name; though this time I'm dining with visiting friends in Exchange Square, Hong Kong rather than Hoxton Square, London. The Square is located on the mezzanine level of corporate paradise; Exchange Square (I think I just wanted to say the word 'square' a few more times). It seems like the type of place that would thrive with the lunchtime crowd, but was only a third full on the Saturday night we visited. It's a tastefully laid out space with comfortable decor and broken views of the Victoria Harbour and Kowloon's blooming skyline.
For a Chinese restaurant the menu isn't overly extensive, though it included a number of Cantonese favourites and plenty of unnecessary luxuries like birds nest and shark fin. We ordered barbecue suckling pig, tangerine prawns, mushrooms with pea sprouts, beef with vegetables and braised chicken with chestnuts. The food was all of a high standard and all rather delicious. I especially enjoyed the tender braised chicken which was served sizzling from the oven and the plate of six huge juicy prawns that were delicately fried and garnished with a tangy, sweet and sour tangerine
sauce. We happily drunk cold cans of Tsingtao, and though I didn't order wine the selection on offer looked reasonable value.
I was impressed with The Square; tucked away from the weekend crowds it was a pleasant environment for an evening meal. The friendly staff were extremely professional and more than happy to assist in making recommendations and explaining menu items, they were also responsible for some of the best beer pouring I've seen at a Chinese restaurant. At over $800 for the four of us, including service charge, I thought it was particularly good value, especially considering the high quality food and central location. The Square comes recommended.
98 Wellington St, Central
Visited 1st October 2008
A mate and I found Tsim Chai Kee Noodle by chance while staggering down from Soho. When we rocked up it was quite busy with a line of people waiting for seats. Decked out with communal wooden tables and simple wooden stools it was a surprisingly clean and pleasant environment.
There was only a couple of options on the menu; noodles with beef, noodles with wontons, noodles with minced fish balls, noodles with a combination of things and vegetables. We luckily both like noodles and went for the beef, wonton combination. While the steaming bowls that arrived weren’t as big as I expected, they were rather tasty. The strips of beef were tender and the two chunky wontons packed with juicy prawn. The highlight however was the delicious soup base; it was dark, rich and flavoursome.
A tasty meal for $21 is good value and it was rather nice to be able to enjoy a bowl of noodles in such a clean, modern environment. Sure the service was nothing special, but I got a smile as by bowl was plonked down and they had English menus, which is enough for me. If you’re in the area and feeling peckish Tsim Chai Kee Noodle is a good option, it’s also convenient if you just happen to be stumbling downhill from Soho.
2/F, Lower Block, City Hall, Edinburgh Place, Central
Visited 4th August 2008
Yum Cha is on of the quintessential Hong Kong dinning experience and Maxims Palace is perhaps the quintessential place to indulge. A house full of guests keen for a day at Ocean Park called for a serious breakfast so we all tumbled into Maxims to prepare for the pandas, turbo drop and pushy hordes following stupid flags. Once located on prim harbour real estate, City Hall now seems to have been a little lost in the glamour of recent developments and land reclamation. Maxims however has lost none of its popularity and though we arrived early enough to avoid the queue, by the time we left there was a huge line waiting for tables. The decor is rather traditional with lots of red and dragons dominating the huge, high ceilinged room. For me though, a touch of class was derived from the gorgeous white porcelain tea-cups and a spectacular view of Victoria Harbour.
Dim Sum is still served by traditional trolley wielding waitress and we ordered up a tower of baskets that included all the usual favourites: sui mei, barbecue pork buns, steamed beef balls, shrimp dumplings, steamed pork ribs, rice paper rolls, spring rolls and fried squid. The quality of ingredients used was obvious and most of the food was top-notch. I was particularly impressed with the seafood and loved the prawn dumplings and sui mei. The selection of alcoholic drinks available
is pretty limited, but seeing what time of day it was that didn't particularly bother us as we were happy with tea.
Maxims Palace really is a perfect place to bring guests to Hong Kong; the foods excellent, the view fantastic and the restaurant has a classic Hong Kong busy bordering on craziness, yet it's restrained with a hint of elegance. The service was fine and the staff were than happy to assist us ordering items that weren't rolling past on trolleys. Maxims' reputation ensures prices are above your street average yum cha joint with the dim sum ranging from $25 to $44. The bill for four of us came to $503, which isn't bad considering the restaurant's reputation, quality and location. Visiting Maxims seems a bit too much bother for Sunday yum cha - I'd prefer somewhere more local in both location and ambiance - but I'll certainly be taking visitors there in the future.
Visit restaurant's strangely Chinese only website.
108 Hollywood Road, Hong Kong
Visited 27th June 2008
Friday night saw me trudging down Hollywood Rd with shoddy directions and instructions to find number 104. When I stumbled into Classified - which is definitely in Sheung Wan, not Central - my fatigue quickly turned to excitement. A less formal café attached to the prestigious Press Room restaurant, Classified specialises in wine and cheese as well as offering snacks, coffee and desserts. Downstairs it's an open cafe with a few tables, magazines and a tempting cake display, but the magic is all on the second floor. Climbing the stairs you are greeted by a room dominated by a mass
ive, communal table, but it's the walls that grab your attention - three are covered in bottles of glorious wine while the fourth offers magnificent views of the temperature controlled cheese room.
Enclosed in such temptation I managed to hold firm and order 'proper food' - a serve of mushroom risotto - before indulging in the sweet ecstasy of cheese heaven. The plate of risotto wasn't a huge, but was well made and tasty. It was creamy and the richness of the mushrooms was nicely contrasted with a handful of fresh, peppery rocket. It came time for cheese and we shared five different varieties between three of us. We were able to try a few sneaky samples before deciding and the selection we chose came with quince paste
and heavy brown bread. The cheeses were perfectly ripe and truly divine. There's a little more to life then cheese and we worked our way through bottles of Bisol Prosecco and Perrin Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 2005. The fresh, crisp Prosecco worked a treat with dinner; while the sweet Muscat was a nice match with the cheese; though I'm not sure it impressed me enough for the $430 price tag.
What's not to love about Classified? The service by friendly and knowledgeable staff was exceptional, the environment is relaxed, yet pleasant and the range of wine and cheese is outstanding. $85 for the risotto was certainly fair and while the booze wasn't cheap, the quality was excellent and selection well thought out. Classified is the sort of place you could visit for lunch, afternoon tea, dinner or a late night snack, the only worry would be making yourself leave; highly recommended.
Visit Restaurant website.