Don & Petie Kladstrup ‘Champagne’

2005, Harper Collins; New York

This book is subtitled ‘How the World’s Most Glamorous Wine Triumphed Over War and Hard Times’ and is more about a concept than a drink. Champagne as a beverage is discussed very little; the authors don't mention aromas, flavour or anything resembling a tasting note. Instead the focus is on Champagne as the product of a place, Champagne as a product of marketing, Champagne as an economic unit, Champagne as politics and Champagne as a collection of shared histories.

Starting in the middle-ages the authors move through the history of the region, bringing their account alive through tales of the vibrant characters that have emerged to shape Champagne’s reputation. While many of the stories are enlightening and enjoyable what I found most interesting is the historic links made to the Champagne of today. The emergence of marketing, the pressures of global trade and international markets, environmental concerns, the role of scientific development, relationships between the growers and the big houses and the AOC rules are all put into historic perspective by the Kladstrups.

Champagne is a drink that mystifies me. It is just as much a product of marketing as it is of terroir; promoting itself as “the drink to celebrate with” has been the key to Champagne’s success. The majority of Champagne is also the product of large companies who are in many ways are the anti-thesis of traditional French wine making; specific terroir and vintage are ignored in the aim of consistency (well at least for the NV offerings that us poor mortals can still barely afford to drink). The Kladstrups successfully use engaging historical accounts and tales of key personalities to weave an entertaining and informative picture of Champagne. Though it is more a book about history rather than wine, Champagne is certainly worth a read for anyone interested in the bubbly juice.

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Why the French Hate Us

'Why the French Hate Us' by Cambell Mattinson
Hardie Grant Books, Melbourne, 2007

I want to discuss more books so I'll start with a ripper. I'd been wanting to read this for ages and was rather excited when I discovered a copy at Page One. Cambell Mattinson is an Australian writer and critic who amongst other things publishers an excellent website, The WineFront.

Mattinson's title is provocative, but it's also tongue in cheek crack; he's not really having a go at the French, but rather is referring to the strength of Australian wine exports. Understanding this title is the key to understanding Why The French Hate Us, which is simply a celebration of Australian wine. It's written with obvious skill, passion and love and Mattinson successfully conveys his ideas through humour and personal antidotes. The text is fluid and fun, and the book is structured around a series of casually related ideas. The first part contains seven chapters that address topics such as Australia's "cult wines", the importance of Grange and our relationship to the New Zealand wine industry. It's something of a mix of history, opinion and speculation. The second section deals with individual wineries. Mattinson critiques a diverse range of producers in his quest to prove that Australia offers world class fine wine along side the cheap and cheerful commodity wine we do so well.
Critics could claim that the book lacks fact and structure, but Mattinson's approach is personal; more akin to friendly chat than a report. For a book on wine it's entertaining and I often laughed out loud. Why the French Hate Us comes highly recommend; it's a passionate book about a worthy topic and I'm all for celebrating the potential of Australian fine wine.

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