Topie & Dinah 'Live Seafood Restaurant'

Caw-Oy, Olango Island, Lapu-Lapu City, Philippines
Visited 25th April A brief tip to Philippines for the Cebu Rugby 10s left a big bunch of hungover blokes looking for something to divert the pain come Sunday morning. There really wasn't much for it but to hire a boat and go for a cruise. Our first stop was the fish feeding area off the side of Olango Island that I've visited before; this time unfortunately there weren't many fish so the whole snorkelling thing was a bit of a letdown. Suddenly it was lunch time and we were shunted across to a Topie & Dinah 'Live Seafood Restaurant' further around the island. This place claims to be 'floating', though in reality it sits on stilts just off the Island. The restaurant itself is really basic; just a concrete floor and roof. We sprawled out, ordered some San Migs and started to think about food.

There weren't menus, just a few of tubes of fish to choose from so a couple of blokes took responsibility and ordered up a decent mix of fishy goodies. First came some char-grilled tiger prawns; these guys were big, tasty and flavoursome. Next up were some big grilled clams with garlic and fried calamari. The squid was ruined by the thick, ugly batter that consumed it; however the clams were better, though a tad dry. 'Lapu-Lapu' is how the Filipinos refer to Grouper and it's considered a bit of a national delicacy. The fish we were presented with was tiny, though tasty and well prepared in an almost Chinese style with ginger, garlic and soy. Last was a whole tuna, just big enough for our table of hungry rugby players. The fish was simply grilled on coals. It was cooked too quickly which meant that different parts were cooked to different degrees, but if you found the right part it was delicious. Cold bottles of San Mig were the order of the day, though I think I saw someone sensibly sipping on water. OK so the food wasn't Earth shattering, but our lunch at Topie & Dinah 'Live Seafood Restaurant' certainly scores points as an experience. The tab came to a fair PHP550 (HK$100) each. My biggest concern however was the environmental consequences of my lunch. The restaurant was located atop coral in or near a marine sanctuary; coral which we were forced to walk across. The grouper was clearly well under-sized and many types of tuna are endangered. Oh the toilet also flushed straight into the water. OK so If I'm such a raving hippie why did I bother writing the restaurant up at all? Well despite my reservations I still think the lunch deserves recognition as part of a great weekend. I was in Cebu for under forty hours yet managed a rugby tournament, dinner, partying, a dawn ANZAC Day Service, boat trip, seafood lunch and a bit of pool time; it just shows you what you can do in a weekend!

Mr. J Secret Restaurant

250 Wusing St, Taipei
Visited 26th October 2009
My girlfriend loves Taiwanese pop singer Jay Chou and somehow a romantic long weekend in Taipei became a bit of a Jay Chou odyssey. The first day we had a decent lunch at Butaya his Japanese tonkatsu restaurant and on our final day we visited his flagship outlet Mr. J Secret restaurant. A bit of fast talking meant I avoided the noodle shop where he liked eating dumplings as a school boy (I kid you not). Mr. J Secret Restaurant actually ended up being a bit of a secret and we had to ask directions off a policeman to find it. We eventually found ourselves feeling a little out of place in the grounds of Taipei's Medical University, where the restaurant is found. Inside it's decked out in tribute of the movie Secret, which our man Jay not only starred in but also directed. The waiting staff are garbed in the uniforms of the school in the movie and we sat next the 'magical' piano around which the film revolves.

Mr. J Secret Restaurant claims to be 'French-Italian Restaurant' which I think means it serves a random mix of western food. I ordered a set lunch with a salad and spaghetti bolognese, along with a Taiwan Beer. My little Jay Choy fan went for mushroom soup, the 'authentic' Italian curry chicken risotto and a bubble tea. One of the options for salad dressing was 'orange' and I couldn't resist; while the dressing was surprisingly good the four tiny lettuce leaves and half a cherry tomato wouldn't have been enough to feed my hamster. The pasta was pretty average with the watery sauce lacking meat and needing another couple of hours of slow cooking. The mushroom soup was OK and the risotto was weird, but OK, though not made with risotto rice. Our lunch cost TN$757 (about HK$200) which was OK I suppose.
Mr. J Secret Restaurant is an acquired taste and that taste is Mr Jay. I guess you've got the impression that the food is just OK, but that's not why you go. If getting your photo taken next the piano from Secret, staring at massive photos of Jay Chou or buying a souvenir magnet is your idea of a good time then Mr. J Secret Restaurant is for you. If you're a fan you've probably already been, if not don't bother.
Visit restaurant website.

Hot Star Large Fried Chicken

Stall 535, Shilin Nightmarket, Taipei
Visited 25th October 2009
In my girlfriend's Cantonese Travel Guide they listed Hot Star Chicken as 'No. 1'. Last time I was in Taiwan the large queue led me to this very stall and the fact I'd tried the chicken before simply made me keener to get back to Shilin Nightmarket to try it again. After a day spent exploring Danshui we dropped into the market on the way home for a feast of the snack food that Taipei is famous for.

Life's pretty easy at Hot Star Large Fried Chicken; you've got the simple choice of a fried chicken fillet without bones (more convenient) or a fried chicken fillet with bones (bigger and definitely the way to go!). The next difficult decision is how much spicy you want it. The massive fried chicken fillet we were presented with was truly gargantuan. Obviously made from a whole chicken it was even bigger that the legendary palmers of the Skinny Dog. Hot, fresh and surprisingly tender the thing was good. The spice mixed tossed all over it gave it a nice chilli kick and for a piece of fried chicken it was remarkable oil free.

My local late night stable in Yuen Long, Big, Big Chick, is based upon this style of Taiwan fried chicken. However much I love Big Big Chick, Hot Star Large Fried Chicken leaves it for dead. While it's probably outrageous to suggest flying specifically to Taipei to get involved with a piece of fried chicken bigger than your head, if you get the chance check out Hot Star Large fried Chicken!

Nazars Turkish Ice-cream

Ferry Pier, Danshui
Visited 25th October 2009
Danshui is a town located at the mouth of the river with the same name and is an easy day trip from Taipei. It’s known for its ‘romantic’ sunset views and historic Fort Santo Domingo, but also has a winding street market that pulls the punters. The market was decent, with plenty of tasty snacks, but what we were both hanging out for was Nazar's Turkish Ice-Cream. We’d heard rumours about this bloke and were pretty excited when we found his little shop on the waterfront, just near where the ferries depart from.

Ordering an ice-cream from Nazar is pretty easy, there’s only chocolate and vanilla to choose from, served in a standard single cone. However the trick isn’t ordering your ice-cream, but getting it in your hand. Nazar packs the cone with cold, ultra sticky ice-cream and offers it to you, you grab for it, but the cone spins out of your reach. It’s offered again, you go to take it, this time the cone spins upside down and slips your grip. After five, maybe ten minutes of fun and games you’re finally presented with your ice-cream. Turkish ice-cream is interesting stuff; it’s sticky rather than creamy and Nazar’s was pretty tasty, though very different from your standard ice-cream cone.

Nazar is a master entertainer and the punters flock to the show. He smiled the whole time and we stood mesmerised. I’ve found a clip on YouTube that probably does him better justice than my clumsy description. While it’s good, in all honesty the ice-cream is irrelevant, the reason I'm recommending you visit Nazars Turkish Ice-cream is for the pure joy of the show.

Raohe Street Night Market

Raohe Street, Songshan District, Taipei
Visited 24th October 2009
A public holiday in honour of the Chung Yeung Festival means a sneaky trip across to Taipei for the long weekend. After arriving late Friday, Saturday was all about sightseeing: Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, the Wanhua District, Sun Yat-sen Hall and Taipei 101. Later in the evening, somewhat under duress I found myself at the massive Wufenpu Clothing Market. While originally a wholesale operation this massive market now does a roaring retail trade for the fashion conscious looking for a bargain. As I obviously don't fit that category I adopted my usual shopping strategy and grabbed a couple of cold beers from a convenience store and found a perch to watch the world spin past. After the bargains had been shot, bagged and hung it was only as short stroll to Raohe Street Night Market.

When ever I mention Taipei to my work colleagues they begin to rant about snacks, street food and night markets; while it may be a bit of a stereotype, it seems to me that Hong Kongers main interest in Taipei is their obsession with Taiwanese snack food. On my last trip I visited the vibrant Shilin Nightmarket and grotty Huaxi Street Tourist Night Market, so this was my first trip to Raohe Street. The market was smaller than I expected and the close sided street was jammed with stalls and a pulsating mass of punters. Though it was crowded the market had a vibrant and lively feel with plenty going on.

We arrived just planning to have a 'snack' but ended up having several. First off it was a couple of big, juicy pan-fried buns purchased from a bloke frying them up right in the middle of the road. Beautifully textured with soft, light dough and crispy bums, these were some tasty buns. We stepped into a little restaurant for some noodles and had a serve of la mian with beef and chilli, along with a really interesting plate of seaweed and tofu; a dish I'd never had before. The spicy noodles were good, though really rich with all the fat from the meat. The seaweed was an interesting dish that offered a good contrast to the heat and oily richness of the noodles. Apart from the always popular food stalls there were plenty of places selling a variety of clothes, handcraft, household stuff and crappy souvenirs. And yes somehow we managed to do more shopping on the way out. Too be honest I wasn't expecting much when I arrived at Raohe Street Night Market, but I loved it. Packing a surprisingly good punch for its size it is one of the better options amongst Taipei's parade of nightmarkets.
Visit market website.

Brunch at the Pan Pacific Orchard

10 Claymore Rd, Singapore
Visited 31st May 2009

If I was being controversial I'd say Singapore isn't particularly a great place to live, but one thing that is undeniable is that it's a fantastic place to eat. Our sly weekend away was all about zoos, flyers and hawker markets and ended with a very Singapore style Sunday brunch. Rumour has it the best brunch buffet in town is at the Fullerton but we thought we give the Orchard Rd branch of the Pan Pacific a go as it was located just around the corner from where we were staying.
Most Sunday buffets style themselves as a brunch affair, but at the Pan Pacific Orchard it's a lunch thing. The buffet selection wasn't massive though there was some nice seafood (prawns, oysters, salmon and mussels), OK salads, a few decent hot dishes and a good choice of desserts. I especially enjoyed the smoked salmon, sausages and the range of tasty bite sized desserts. Running from noon until four the selection also includes a main. The options included roast pork, barramundi, chicken and vegetarian pasta, but I couldn't resist a steak. The juicy sirloin was well cooked and tender. To drink it was all about free-flowering G.H. Mumm Cordon Rouge; while not my favourite sparkling it certainly tasted pretty good in Singapore where alcohol is ridiculously overpriced. The Champagne was turned off at 3.30, but they happily bought us a bottle of red to finish things off.

Buffets are about variety and value. I would have liked to have seen a few more dishes on offer, but things aren't that bad when you consider you're getting a main; I suppose you could look at the buffet as a 'salad bar' accompanying the meal. What you can't knock is the value; free flow Champers, a big juicy steak and as much seafood as you can eat for $88 is certainly a great deal. Professional service and a nice setting in the ground floor lounge just add to the experience. While it's probably not the best buffet in Singapore, it could be the best value. Sunday lunch at the Pan Pacific Orchard is recommended, especially if you like Mumm (and don't have to fly back to Hong Kong with a hangover).
Visit restaurant website.

abacá

Punta Engano Rd, Mactan Island, Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu
Visited 3rd May 2009
The Hong Kong tradition of having holidays on the actual day means that despite a decent number of public holidays we only get the occasional long weekend. May Day was the first three day weekend since last September and to make the most of it I headed to Cebu with a mate. Next to our hotel on Mactan Island was a mysterious, imposing concrete fence and set of gates with a sign saying "honk horn for entry". We assumed it was a nightclub, however a little research (looking for a late night drink) revealed abaca; a boutique hotel and restaurant. Abaca really is a pretty lush proposition. The rooms are extraordinarily indulgent; with each having its own private swimming pool. The beautiful open air restaurant is set in a tropical garden with views of both Cebu Straight and the kitchen's big wood fired oven.

The modern menu is packed with plenty of delicious western style dishes that highlight fresh, local ingredients. I started with a serve of fried calamari followed by a fillet of tuna atop gnocchi, while my mate went with lamb kebabs and grilled salmon. The massive pile of meltingly fresh squid was extremely tasty and big enough to be a meal in itself, while the perfectly cooked tuna was delicious served atop tender home-made gnocchi. The meal was completed by chewy homemade bread, rosemary infused oil for dipping and a side serve of mash. We drank local beers to start and then tried an interesting and aromatic blend of Romanian Gewürztraminer followed by a crisp Woodstock Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from Margret River.
Abaca really is outstanding. The attentive and professional staff are the backbone of an ultra slick operation that centres on excellent food and a beautiful garden location. The Philippines normally offers excellent value, yet our bill at abaca came to P7350 (HK$1240), though nearly half of this was for the drinks. This may seem a tad hefty compared to local chicken and rice joints, but abaca is a restaurant of international quality and judged on this scale still offers good value; my tuna main was P865 which is less than HK$140. Divine tropical ambiance, professional service, top notch grub and good wine list makes abaca a top dinning destination. How can I not recommend a restaurant where every part of our experience was superb? Visit restaurant website.

Red Dot Brewhouse

25A, Dempsey Rd, Singapore
Visited 11th April 2009

My last afternoon in Singapore and instead of a ride on the Singapore Flyer or a trip to Jurong Bird Park we decided a more constructive use of time was to visit the Red Dot Brewhouse. This small micro-brewery and restaurant is located in a lush garden set back from Dempsey Rd; not far past the end of the Orchard Rd shops and the Botanical gardens. The restaurant is airy and well set out with a pond, plenty of lush greenery and views of the brewery's inner workings.

I arrived at the Red Dot Brewhouse we high expectations set by my mate who had talked up the burgers - I'd basically heard about nothing but these huge, homemade hamburgers for the last couple of days. Tragically we arrived between lunch and dinner and had to make do with a couple of snake plates. The homemade chips we ordered were crisp and a perfect accompaniment to the beer, as was the fritto misto, which in this case consisted of lots of fresh seafood; calamari, mussels and prawns. We started with pints of Monster Green Ale, a fresh, herbal beer with a distinctive green colour and then enjoyed a richer, yeastier summer ale. Both beers were excellent.
I’m all over the Red Dot Brewhouse; this place is cool. One big plus is the beautiful garden setting that is perfect for a relaxed afternoon of sampling boutique beers and nibbling on tasty snacks. Another is the excellent staff; friendly and informed they came over to ask if we wanted another drink before happy hour finished and our change even appeared quickly – something that never happens in Singapore. The beers I tried were great as was the food, though now all I want to do is try the rest of the brews and get my jaws into one of those burgers. For a country were alcohol is pathetically expensive prices at the Red Dot Brewery are extremely fair. During happy hour a pint was only $7 and bargain when you consider at Clarke Quay you’d pay double that for rubbish beer. There's a lot to like about the Red Dot Brewery; I know next time I'm in town I'll be coming back for one of those burgers and a couple of pints.
Visit brewery website.

Quan An Ngon

138 Nam Kỳ Khởi Nghĩa, Quận 1, Saigon, Vietnam
Visited 22nd March 2009.

A rugby trip to Saigon and it's the first time I'd visited Vietnam since the three months I spent there before coming to Hong Kong. Amongst the poor performances on pitch and good performances off, I managed to find a couple of hours to slip away for a meal at an old favourite; Quan An Ngon. Situated in a beautiful colonial house and its lush tropical grounds Quan An Ngon is always busy; packed with locals and expats it has a reputation for offering top quality traditional food at reasonable prices. It's located an easy work from the War Remnants Museum (the museum formally known as the Museum of American War Crimes) in the Dong Khoi area.

It had been ages since I'd eaten Vietnamese and after ordering a cold bottle of Saigon Beer (not my first for the weekend) I gave the menu some serious consideration. Confronted with a world of forgotten flavours I wanted it all, but finally forced myself to choose steamed rice flour rolls (Bánh Cuốn Nhân Thịt), green papaya salad with shrimp and pork (Gỏi đu đủ tôm thịt) and steamed clams with lemongrass (Nghêu hấp ). The steamed rice rolls were excellent; stuffed with pork and mushroom they came and accompanied my fish sauce, cucumber salad and some Vietnamese style preserved sausage. The papaya salad was just as awesome; fresh and bursting with flavour it was also a matter of contrasting textures - prawn crackers, peanuts and fried garlic added crunch, while lime, red chillies and basil all added freshness, heat and zest. The steamed clams had a good lemongrass flavours, but were a tad dry.

I like Quan An Ngon, oh yes I do. The garden and verandas of the old house offer a lush tropical setting to enjoy superb renditions of Vietnamese classics. The staff are efficient and friendly and for such a busy place the whole operation runs surprisingly smoothly. My bill for three dishes and a beer was a massive 108,000 dong which translates to a piddly HK$45; while you can eat on the streets for much cheaper this is still a bargain considering the quality and class. Quan An Ngon; recommended.

Yoshinori Saeki

584 Takakura Tooru Street, Kyoto
Visited 3rd February 2009
We stumbled across Yoshinori Saeki while exploring Kyoto. We decided to take a look. They were full. We did the only reasonable thing. We made a booking. We came back the following evening. Yakitori restaurants are normally a raucous occasion of eating grilled stuff on sticks and sculling beer, but the first thing you notice about Yoshinori Saeki is that it's oozing refined charm. The restaurant is built in a 100 year old house, the staff are traditionally dressed the there's refrained elegance in the air. We were seated at the bar and had perfect view of the chefs cooking tasty treats to order. Glancing at their website Yoshinori Saeki proclaims the merits of suppliers; a typically Japanese commitment to local quality ingredients.

OK, OK the menu was all about grilled stuff on sticks, but I was impressed that there were almost as many vegetable based options as meat ones. The selection we ordered included tender pork belly, chicken fillet with wasabi, beef with leek, delicious minced pork and sweet baby onions on skewers. We also had some delicious sticky chicken wings coated in sesame seeds and fluffy baked Hokkaido potatoes that were so good we ordered a second serve. The food was, well, excellent. The meat dishes were tender and flavoursome, the sauces were delicate and presentation was perfect. Oh yeah we drank beer.
I don't think we had any bad meals in Japan, but some were simply spectacular and Yoshinori Saeki fits the category. What we had was a dining experience where excellent food was perfectly matched by the seating and service. Our meal came to ¥7,250 and even though this included a few beers it wasn't cheap, but it was certainly worth it. At Yoshinori Saeki we drank beer and ate grilled meat on a stick, yet came out feeling calm and meditative - that place is good for the soul!

Visit restaurant website.

Me-n-me Noodles

68 Honmachi, Himeji, Japan
Visited 2nd February 2009
After skiing at Nozawa Onsen we headed to Kyoto to explore Japan's former capital. Our first afternoon was spent amongst the tranquil beauty of the Fushimi Inari Shrine and next morning we caught the train to Himeji to visit its amazing castle. When we arrived it was time for brunch and we took a recommendation from the Lonely Planet and stopped at Me-n-me Noodles. If you're visiting Himeji this little restaurant is pretty simple to find - get off the train - walk along the main street towards the castle (you really, really can't miss this castle) - the restaurant is about two thirds of the way down on the left - look for a flag with a wacky picture of noodles being rolled.

Life at Me-n-me Noodles is pretty simple; it's all about udon in curry sauce. I went for a serve of curry beef noodles and was pretty impressed when I saw the chef start pulling, folding and rolling to make my udon to order. These delicious noodles were perfectly cooked and beautifully chewy. Japanese curry doesn't normally rock my boat but the sauce that was on these was pretty damn good; thick, rich and a beautiful blend of sweet spices it was the perfect accompaniment for a winters morning.

I can't remember how much our noodles cost, but they were certainly good value. People come to Himeji to see its spectacular castle, but the neighbouring Kokoen Gardens are also worth a visit as is Me-n-me Noodles; a rather delicious attraction for both tourists and locals alike.

Bijan

3 Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumper, Malaysia
Visited 14th September 2008
For our Sunday night in Kuala Lumper we took a recommendation from the Lonely Planet and ended up at Bijan. This garden restaurant is located just past the busy strip of restaurants on Changkat Bukit Bintang. Half outside, half in the restaurant is beautifully decorated with Malay art, tasteful candles and plenty of potted greenery. When we arrived there was a delicious looking dinner buffet in progress, but we decided that our appetites couldn't handle the pressure so happily sipped on a bottle of wine until the a la carte menu recommenced at 9pm.

Bijan styles itself as offering modern versions of Malay favourites and we ummed and ahhed until finally deciding upon 'ayam goreng berempah' a crispy fried chicken dish, beef rendang and 'gulai sayur campur' vegetables cooked in a creamy coconut broth. The Chicken was crisp on the outer and succulent in the middle while the rendang was rich and flavoursome, though perhaps not as tender as I expected. She couldn't tear her eyes of the dessert menu and ordered a serve of banana fritters with coconut ice-cream, while "I" ordered 'pengat pisang' a mix of sago, palm sugar, coconut cream and fresh bananas. Both desserts were excellent and offered stylish takes on classic Malaysian flavours. Bijan wants to develop wine pairing with Malay food and their wine-list offered some excellent selections. Being a hot, holiday evening a little Sav Blanc seemed right and we enjoyed a bottle of Sacred Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2007.

From the start I was impressed. The service was outstanding and the staff were friendly, considerate and more than happy to offer suggestions or explanations. The delicious food was good value considering the prices on the surrounding streets; our bill come to RM320, but more than half of that was for wine, which isn't cheap in Malaysia. To top off the experience, Bijan was such a pleasant place to be; the garden atmosphere was relaxing and the candles and art gave it an enchanting feel. For a night of great Malay food Bijan is definitely the place in Kuala Lumpur.
Visit restaurant website.

Sing-Sing-Sing-a-pore

Long Weekend in Singapore
6th June to 9th June 2008
The Tuen Ng or Dragon Boat Festival meant a work free Monday so it was off to Singapore we went. Really an opportunity to catch-up with mates, it was also good to visit some sights we hadn't previously seen. A nocturnal adventure at the Night Safari was a highlight, as was a morning spent frolicking on Sentosa Island while trying to avoid an obnoxious hangover. Singapore of course presented plenty of opportunities to eat and drink.

International Delights
Many similarities could be drawn between Singapore's food scene and what happens here in Hong Kong. There are lots of great local places offering unique food at bargain prices, but also an upper crust of restaurant's who charge the earth and spend way too much effort worrying about how they look.

Heading to the local Italian seems to be a tradition where ever you are and for many in Singapore I gather the local Italian is Pizzeria restaurant de Mario. This little place tucked away on Robertson Quay is fantastic. The big serves of traditional food are well made and packed full of quality ingredients. My serve of spaghetti with crab, tomato and mushrooms was excellent. This place also scores extra points for its low-key atmosphere and reasonable prices.

For me a visit to Singapore isn't complete without at least one stop at Little Indian. It's an absolute gem of a place that counters all the stereotypes of Singapore's boring conformity. Naomi stocked up on Indian bangles, while I went shopping for poppadums before we randomly chose Serangoon Kaaraikudi Banana Leaf Restaurant for lunch. This place was packed with locals and the friendly waiter served us each a pile of food that was almost as big as the restaurant's name. The rice, chutney, dhal, vegetables and chicken curry was tasty, authentic and a good example of what Little India has to offer.

Too, Too, Too Many Drinks
OK food's done, now for a drink. One thing I did notice about Singapore was that it seems to be lacking coffee. There are a few branches of the big chains around, but even these are pretty scarce. Finding a decent cafe and a decent cup of decent espresso is strangely difficult for a city of Singapore's size and international flavour.
Saturday night was a mission to catch up with an old school buddy; someone I hadn't seen for twelve years. Nights like this always seem to involve a few drinks so we hit the bars of Clarke Quay. The Disneyland like carnival atmosphere of this 'entertainment zone' was enhanced by a bungee jump, costumed waiters from ridiculous themed bars and crowds of camera wielding sightseers. After wandering indecisively we ended up in one of the many bars where plenty of gin and tonics and a good outside table resulted in a fun night. Though I enjoyed myself, Clarke Quay wasn't really for me; the drinks were ultra expensive and the bars wrapped up in too much ego to be really pleasant.

Sunday was all about recovery and Sentosa Island was the place for it. After the enthusiasm of Saturday night's drinking a day on the beach was just what the doctor ordered. After some excellent frisbee and a little dip we wandered along the beaches and palm lined tracks and ended up at KM8. This beach bar was the perfect place to chill; good tunes, beers and bar snacks resulted in a relaxed afternoon, the only problem being the staff who seemed even more relaxed then the punters.