Sunday, 16 August 2009

Borough Market

Borough High St, Borough, London
Visited 15th August 2009

For an Aussie teacher living in Hong Kong I tend to visit London a fair bit. While Borough Market isn't my reason for rocking into town I always try and find time for a trip to this great market. It's situated just past the southern end of Tower Bridge, under the train lines next to Southwark Cathedral. It has been running on its current site since 1796, though there has apparently been a market in the area since Roman times.
The key to Borough Market is not shopping, but browsing; though a better term would probably be grazing. Before the commitment of actually buying anything it's always worth a stroll to see what tasty tit bits and samples are up for offer (my other favourite place for a graze is Sapporo Airport). I wondered the stalls and gazed starry eyed at a cornucopia of fruit, vegetables, mushrooms, herbs, fish, meat, game, cheese, bread, cakes, chocolate, beer, wine and a thousand other exciting things. When there was something to try I did. I managed to sample a delicious range of cured meats, cheese, a tasty little bit of chocolate or two and even a couple of sips of wine.

Eventually however it was time for a solid lunch and we ended up at the barbecue out back of Brindisa. This supplier of Spanish produce fires up the barbecue and sells chewie rolls dossed with olive oil and then filled with roasted capsicum, rocket and a choice of one or two spicy chorizo sausages; we of course went for the double. OK it was just a sandwich but it was a good sandwich and a sandwich which seemed to encapsulate Borough Market; tasty food, made with fresh local ingredients, but with a twist of international flavour. My only complaint was the element of danger eating these sandwiches; dripping chorizo fat, roasted capsicum juice and olive oil, is tasty, but does tend to stain your favourite t-shirt. For the sceptics Borough Market goes a long way to proving the quality of contemporary English food.
Visit market
website.

Friday, 14 August 2009

Snap Shot Montenegro

Trip to Montenegro
9th to 14th August 2009


It may not be a big country, but a week is certainly not long enough to explore Montenegro. Having driven in from Croatia we spent our first couple of nights on the peaceful Bay of Kotor before moving to the spectacular Sveti Stefan. Though we didn't have a proper look at the inland, our afternoon exploring the surrounds of Lake Skadar was certainly memorable.
The view from the hillside above the town of Kotor with the massive Bay of Kotor behind.
Climbing higher above the town are the impressive ramparts of an extensive ruined fortress.
Illuminated at night the fortress is brilliant; depending on your perspective it either resembles a lion or a heart.
Sveti Stefan's spectacular hotel. Built within the buildings of the original fishing in the 1950's the hotel was once the height of sophistication and luxury on the Adriatic. Today it is supposedly in the process of redevelopment from the decline it suffered when Yugoslavia broke up.
Some things just aren't meant for the beach and this certainly includes high heels and techno! Rows of sunbeds cater for the mobs of Russian package tourists who descend on the Montenegro coast sprouting leopard print bikinis and hairy chests draped in tattoos and bling.
The fresh seafood on offer at Pržno's water front restaurants.
The views weren't bad either.
An enjoyable morning was spent wandering the ruins of a medieval fortress near the town of Bar.
A sparkle of blue amongst the dry rugged hills.The green shores of Lake Skadar.
A couple of locals out for a strollA swimmer soaks up the sunset.

Wednesday, 12 August 2009

Petar Lekovic's Vineyard Vranac 2006

Lake Skadar, Montenegro, €9.00, cork

Dinner in our Sveti Stefan apartment was very much a tribute to the Lekovic family. Pasta was prepared with a sauce that used tomatoes, chillies, onions and herbs from their roadside stall and to accompany it we cracked the bottle of their wine we'd purchased. There's very little about Montenegrin wine out there, but apparently the country has two main wine producing zones; the coastal region adjacent to the Adriatic and 'Podgorica' an area around the capital that shares same name and includes Lake Skadar. This of course comes from Lake Skadar.

This is dark, dark stuff; it's purple and is actually a similar shade to the cherry brandy that Mrs Lekovic made me scull. The nose isn't over the top, but what I can smell is a rich and indulgent mix of aromas: rum n raisin, plum jam, spice, port and just a sprinkle of Christmas. This wine offers up one massive wallop of flavour; syrupy, sweet and intense it tastes of plum jam, preserved cherries and Ribena. To say this is full bodied is an understatement; creamy and thick this is rich, ripe and sweet. Probably too sweet and over the top to drink too much of this, this is very much a wine for those who love the style. Petar Lekovic's Vineyard Vranac 2006 is also interesting as it's very different from the other examples of Vranac I've tried. Richer, riper and intense it certainly deserves the title of the literal translation of Vranac - 'black stallion'.

Petar Lekovic Vineyard

Lake Skadar, Montenegro
After a few relaxing days on Montenegro's Bay of Kotor we moved to the beach resort of Sveti Stefan. While the crystal clear water and forest setting were lovely, the masses of leopard print clad Russian package tourists were a tad less appealing. Montenegro isn't a big country and when we decided to spent a day exploring inland we found ourselves in the surrounds of Lake Skadar. The massive lake is a delightful place packed with millions of tiny fish and a massive variety of waterfowl. Its inherent natural beauty is enhanced by a peacefulness and tranquillity of its setting; a setting that stands in stark contrast to the overt tackiness of the coast.

A drive around Lake Skadar isn't so much a drive around the lake, but a winding journey through the steep hills above. While the road is made, it's a single lane and the chances of bumping into a cow, goat or donkey are high. Passing through tiny, isolated farming hamlets we decided to stop for fresh produce and chanced upon the cellar door of the Petar Lekovic Vineyard. Cellar door in this case is a term that is both accurate and misleading. Misleading because their setup is nothing like the highly polished, professional operations one encounters at Australian wineries and accurate because their small roadside stall is literally setup at the door of their home (and cellar) under a bounterful kiwi fruit vine.

Petar and his wife were both manning the stall, and as well as selling us a bottle proudly labelled 'fine wine of Montenegro' we also brought tomatoes, chillies, onions, parsley and apples. Their array of produce was fresh and fragrant, while the jars on display were a temptation for a man who loves preserving as much as I do. We also sampled a shot of delicious, but fiery home-made cherry brandy. I loved the down to earth honesty of the Lekovics and visiting their roadside cellar door was a highlight of my trip to the Balkans. Whether or not you can manage to find the Petar Lekovic Vineyard, a drive through the hills surrounding Lake Skadar is still a highly recommended adventure.

Tuesday, 11 August 2009

Plantaže 'Pro Corde' Vranac 2007

Lake Skadar, Montenegro, €4.19, cork

I’m sitting drinking this perched on the side of Lake Kotor; Montenegro, a fishing rod trails in front of me and life is good. Vranac is a ancient grape that is found throughout the Balkans and is the main variety used in Montenegro; its name translates as black stallion which refers to its colour and intensity. Plantaže, one of the countries biggest wine producers, is famous for transferring the barren Ćemovsko Field into vineyards and one of Europe’s biggest gardens.

It’s dark so I can’t really see the wine, but I can certainly smell it. It’s got a bold nose with plenty of sweet red fruit and fragrant dried herbs. The palate has a seductive sweetness too it and tastes of red fruits, especially raspberry, fresh herbs again, honey and green olives. It’s a medium bodied wine that’s not overly complex, but has decent palate length and mild tannins. What is so good about Plantaže 'Pro Corde' Vranac 2007 is that it is such a drinkable wine; it's balanced and would be good with or without food. To borrow an Aussie expression, this would be a great “barbecue wine”; good stuff.

Visit winery website.

Monday, 10 August 2009

Snap Shot Dubrovnik

Visit to Dubrovnik, Croatia
7th to 9th August 2009


Dubrovnik's spectacular views, historic buildings and crystal clear water make it a pretty special joint. It's also an extremely popular tourist destination and is daily flooded by hordes of tourists that descend from cruise ships and buses. My opinion of the town was in constant flux; when the visitors were around I hated the place, when they left I loved it. A typical Dubrovnik 'snapshot'; jagged cliffs and a medieval building framed by the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic.Dubrovnik historic role as a fortress is obvious from the sea. A trip to nearby Lokrum Island is well worth while. The island's shaded coast offers plenty of opportunities for a relaxing afternoon of swim and a bit of quiet time.A walk around the ramparts offer a fascinating glimpse of the town.Spectacular scenery is found in all directions.Fields of terracotta roof tiles.
A lot of the food on offer in Dubrovnik was rubbish catering for the tourists that blow into town, though for something a bit different it's worth checking out Taj Mahal a cosy little Bosnian restaurant. Bosnian cuisine is different from Croatia's coastal fair; red meats and vegetables dominate and there were similarities to Austrian food with lots of paprika and sour cream.Dubrovnik's history is long and it is acknowledged with status as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Peace and tranquillity prevail on Placa-Stradun, the Old Town's main street; when the cruise ships arrive things quickly change making this an unpalatable mess of pushing, shoving and snapping cameras.As the sun sets Dubrovnik is just as spectacular.

Friday, 7 August 2009

Dinner in Stari Grad

Trip to Stari Grad, Croatia
Visited 6th August 2009

From Bol our Dalmatian adventure continued with a night in the tiny port town of Stari Grad. The Island of Hvar is better known for the popular tourist spot of Hvar City, but quiet Stari Grad's makes for a relaxing alternative. After an evening wandering narrow streets, starring wishfully at big yachts and sipping drinks on the waterfront we ended up in a lovely backstreet restaurant. I've no idea of any of the details of our dining destination and I don't think I ever even caught the place's name.

Occupying a humble, yet beautiful old building the restaurant utilises a lower outdoor courtyard and a higher open-aired balcony; a lovely setting filled with fragrant climbing plants. The menu featured lots of fresh seafood, but my brother went for a tasty steak, healthily stuffed with Chinese and ham, while I chose the local Dalmatian seafood stew - a mix of squid, prawns and fish in a rich tomato and wine sauce. Accompanying this was the usual bread, salad and mandatory carafe of local wine.

Great food in a lovely setting made for a memorable meal, but a real highlight was the excellent service. The bloke waiting the tables was packed with personality and keen for chat. His interesting discussions included insights into life in modern Croatia and the tough times that exist behind the glitz and glamor of the tourist towns. Our visit to Stari Grad was brief, but memorable.

Snap Shot Bol

Trip to Bol, Croatia
Visited 3rd August to 6th August 2009


Bol is the second largest town on the Dalmatian island of Brač. A rich local culture, excellent food and the Adriatic's crystal clear water made for a great first stop on my brother and my Balkan adventure.
Alfresco dinning, a harbour full of boats and a pretty town; Bol has it all going on.
Zlatni Rat or 'Golden Cape' is Bol's main beach and one of the best known in Croatia; a country with a rocky, steep shoreline. Packed with rows basking sun bedders and scantily clad bathers it's not really my scene, but it's still worth checking out for an early morning or evening swim if you can miss the hoards.
One of the highlights of our stay was a hike to the top of Vidova Gora; Brac's tallest mountain. The views were spectacular and the trail that wound through boulder covered slopes and shady woodland was fringed with fragrant wild herbs including thyme, rosemary and marjoram.
The pizza was good at Topolino, a waterfront restaurant attached to the Kastil Hotel.
Fishing boats with Bol's distinctive breakwater in the background.
The waterfront at sunset; no Photoshop necessary.
Hiring a motor boat made for a fun day's outing. Needless to say there were lots of stops for swimming and lots of 'bombs' off the front.
Grilled vegetables, gnocchi, stewed lamb, wine, candles, ultra romantic setting; just a shame I was with my brother...
Our last evening was the Bol Festival; a celebration of the local Saints Day and an excuse for one big party.

Thursday, 6 August 2009

Restaurant Jadranka

9 Uz Pjacu, Bol, Brac, Croatia
Visited 5th August 2009


After the excitement of Shrewsbury the next stop on my summer holiday was a visit to the Island of Brac on Croatia's Dalmatian coast. The four days we spent in Brac's main town of Bol were great and a part of our enjoyment came from the great local food. On our last evening we dined at Restaurant Jadranka. Slightly back from the beach and through the square where the post office is; the restaurant sprawls through a couple of large, open-aired, walled gardens. The setting is fantastic, especially when lit by candle light of an evening. The owner is an accomplished carver and a series of interesting wood sculptures decorate the restaurant. Croatia food echoes Italian cuisine in many ways. Pizza, pasta, grilled meat, simple seafood, salad and bread all have an obvious presence as does the importance attributed to the quality and freshness off the ingredients. Before we had even ordered we were presented with bread, butter and pesto. The thick, heavy bread was delicious and the pile of bright pesto had obviously been freshly made; excellent stuff. For our main we decided upon a platter of grilled meat and were presented with a towering pile of lamb chops, chicken, steak, kebabs and pork fillets, all simply grilled. Accompanying this feast of flesh were a few simple fries, lemon for squeezing and a delicious capsicum based sauce, again homemade. We ordered a side salad and the simple dish of lettuce, onion and tomatoes impressed me with its freshness and I wasn't surprised when I was told that the lettuce had been grown in the proprietor's garden. To drink we did our usual and ordered a carafe of the highly drinkable local wine. I really liked Restaurant Jadranka. The courtyard made for a relaxing setting and the staff were friendly and welcoming; however what impressed me the most was the freshness of the ingredients and the quality of the obviously homemade food. I'm not a bit fan of fluffy foam and sparkly garnishes so well prepared, simple food is a recipe for success in my book. We ate lots of good grub while in Bol, but Restaurant Jadranka would have to take the award for the most memorable meal of stay.

Visit restaurant website.

Sunday, 2 August 2009

The Armoury

Victoria Quay, Welsh Bridge, Shrewsbury
Visited 1st August 2009

I never went to uni in the UK, but occasionally it feels like it did. I had an extensive stint living in the Glasgow Uni Halls of Residence in 2001 and for a lot of 2003 - while teaching in a miserable South Shields school - I took great joy flatting with a group of Newcastle uni students. I was in Shrewsbury for the weekend for a reunion with the girls who I shared with while I 'attended' Newcastle Uni; the first time we'd all been together for six years. It was going to be a big weekend, but things started off rather civilised with lunch at The Armoury; a stylish pub on the banks of River Severn. Located in an 18th Century former armoury building (yep you guessed it) the pub has been well renovated and offers a comfortable light, airy setting. When I visited the pub had attracted a bit of hype as Prince William had been sighted having the odd pint on break from his posting at a nearby military base.

The menu at The Armoury is packed with traditional pub fare, though I'll admit it's very well done pub fare. My friends ordered fish n chips, sardines on toast and welsh rarebit all of which looked delicious, while I eventually decided upon pan-fried salmon atop pea and mussel risotto. The fish was beautifully cooked with a crisp outer and moist centre; while fresh herbs gave the tasty risotto a lovely summer feel. To drink (at this early, early stage of things) it was all about pots of bitter and I enjoyed a couple of local ales that included the very tasty Shropshire Lad.
I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to The Armoury. Sure special friends made a difference, but excellent food, a lovely riverside setting and great service all contributed to a very memorable lunch. If for some reason you're happen to find yourself in Shrewsbury, Shropshire, England head down to the river for a feed at The Armoury; it's well worth it, even if you don't happen to see a Prince.

Visit restaurant website.

Saturday, 1 August 2009

Cave de Tain Saint Joseph

Saint Joseph, Rhone, cork

My brother had this lying around and I'm lacking details; both the price and year of vintage escape me. I do however know that it's 100% Syrah grown on the steep terraces of St Joseph. The Cave de Tain cooperative that produces this was founded in 1933 and today has over 330 members. I'm not sure what the 'terre de violette' or 'purple land' on the label is all about, though google translator happily informs me that perhaps the wine is called the 'purple potato'.

Boy the noise on this was initially faint; I got just the slightest whiff of cassis, fennel, aniseed and chalk. The palate also seems pretty vacant with just a hint of sweet fruit, think cherries, and a touch of green capsicum. When I first sipped this I was about to start ranting about pink socks and white flags, but the wine managed to redeem itself a bit with time; as it opened up and nose gained some delicate floral aromas. Cave de Tain Saint Joseph is light to medium bodied. It's an OK wine that smells of pretty flowers, but tastes of nothing much, though a hint of tannin and acidity help to keep the palate structured and fresh. One for the faint hearted.

Visit winery website.